Mount Everest
Mount Everest is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, with a summit elevation of 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 feet). Located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas, Everest straddles the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Known as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Chomolungma in Tibet, the mountain has captivated explorers, mountaineers, and scientists for centuries.
Geography
Location and Coordinates
- Coordinates: 27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
- Countries: Nepal (south) and China/Tibet (north)
- Mountain Range: Himalayas, Mahalangur Himal subrange
- Parent Peak: None (highest point on Earth)
Elevation Measurements
| Measurement | Method | Year |
|---|---|---|
| 8,848 m (29,029 ft) | Indian survey | 1954 |
| 8,844.43 m (29,017 ft) | Chinese survey (rock height) | 2005 |
| 8,848.86 m (29,031.7 ft) | Nepal-China joint survey | 2020 |
The 2020 joint survey used GPS, leveling, and gravity measurements for unprecedented accuracy.
Topography
Summit
The summit is a relatively small area roughly the size of two ping-pong tables. Key features:
- Snow and ice cap covering bedrock
- Steep drops on all sides
- "Hillary Step" (historically) below summit on southeast ridge
Notable Features
- South Col: 7,906 m, key camp site on southeast route
- North Col: 7,020 m, camp on northeast route
- Western Cwm: Glacial valley at base of Lhotse face
- Khumbu Icefall: Dangerous section on south approach
- Kangshung Face: Massive east face, rarely climbed
Geology
Everest's summit consists of marine limestone:
- Formed on the Tethys Sea floor ~450 million years ago
- Uplifted by collision of Indian and Eurasian plates
- Collision began approximately 50 million years ago
- Mountain continues rising approximately 4 mm per year
- Fossil marine organisms found near summit
Climate
Conditions
Mount Everest experiences extreme conditions:
| Season | Summit Temperature | Winds |
|---|---|---|
| Winter | -36°C (-33°F) avg | 285 km/h possible |
| Summer | -19°C (-2°F) avg | Monsoon storms |
| May | -26°C (-15°F) | Often calmer |
The Death Zone
Above 8,000 meters:
- Atmospheric pressure is about 33% of sea level
- Oxygen levels insufficient for human survival long-term
- Hypoxia leads to impaired judgment
- Frostbite risk is extreme
- Most deaths occur in this zone
Climbing Seasons
- Spring (April-May): Most popular, post-winter calm before monsoon
- Autumn (September-October): Secondary season, more wind
- Winter: Rare attempts, extreme cold and wind
- Summer: Monsoon makes climbing dangerous
Human History
Early Exploration
- 1852: Radhanath Sikdar calculates Everest as world's highest peak
- 1856: Peak officially named after George Everest
- 1921: First British reconnaissance expedition
- 1922: First climbing attempt, reached 8,320 m
- 1924: Mallory and Irvine disappear near summit
The Mallory Mystery
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine were last seen "going strong for the top" on June 8, 1924. Whether they reached the summit remains debated. Mallory's body was found in 1999, but the camera that might prove a summit success has never been located.
First Confirmed Summit
May 29, 1953: Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal/Tibet) reached the summit at 11:30 am via the South Col route.
- Part of British expedition led by John Hunt
- Used supplemental oxygen
- Spent approximately 15 minutes on summit
- Hillary photographed Tenzing; no photo of Hillary on summit
Notable Ascents
| Year | Achievement | Climber(s) |
|---|---|---|
| 1953 | First ascent | Hillary and Tenzing |
| 1975 | First woman | Junko Tabei (Japan) |
| 1978 | First without oxygen | Messner and Habeler |
| 1980 | First solo | Reinhold Messner |
| 1988 | First traverse | N-S and S-N teams |
| 2001 | First blind summit | Erik Weihenmayer |
| 2010 | First 13-year-old | Jordan Romero |
| 2019 | Most summits (24) | Kami Rita Sherpa |
Modern Climbing
Annual statistics (approximate):
- Attempts: 800-1,000 per year
- Summits: 500-800 per year
- Death rate: About 1% of summit attempts
- Permit cost: $11,000 (Nepal), $9,950 (China)
- Total cost: $30,000-$100,000+ for guided expedition
Climbing Routes
South Col Route (Nepal)
The most popular route:
- Lukla (2,860 m): Fly in from Kathmandu
- Namche Bazaar (3,440 m): Acclimatization
- Base Camp (5,364 m): Establish camp
- Khumbu Icefall: Navigate seracs and crevasses
- Camp 1 (6,065 m): Western Cwm entrance
- Camp 2 (6,400 m): Advanced Base Camp
- Camp 3 (7,200 m): Lhotse Face
- Camp 4 (7,920 m): South Col, final push
- Summit (8,848.86 m): Via Southeast Ridge
Northeast Ridge Route (Tibet)
Second most popular:
- Base Camp (5,150 m): Rongbuk Glacier
- Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m)
- Camp 1 (7,028 m): North Col
- Camp 2 (7,500 m)
- Camp 3 (8,300 m)
- Summit: Via Northeast Ridge
Other Routes
- West Ridge: First climbed 1963
- Kangshung Face: East face, extremely difficult
- Southwest Face: First climbed 1975
- North Face Direct: Various lines attempted
Dangers and Deaths
Causes of Death
| Cause | Percentage |
|---|---|
| Avalanche | 22% |
| Falls | 21% |
| Altitude sickness | 17% |
| Exposure/frostbite | 14% |
| Exhaustion | 6% |
| Other/unknown | 20% |
Notable Disasters
- 1996 Disaster: 8 deaths in single storm (documented in "Into Thin Air")
- 2014 Avalanche: 16 Sherpas killed in Khumbu Icefall
- 2015 Earthquake: 19 deaths at Base Camp, deadliest day
- 2019 Traffic Jam: 11 deaths during summit season
Bodies on Everest
- Estimated 200+ bodies remain on the mountain
- Extreme conditions make recovery difficult or impossible
- Some serve as waypoints ("Green Boots")
- Ethical debates about removal
Environmental Issues
Pollution
Human impact has created serious problems:
- Waste: Estimated 50 tons of trash on mountain
- Human waste: Serious contamination issue
- Abandoned equipment: Tents, oxygen bottles, ropes
- Bodies: Cannot be removed in most cases
Conservation Efforts
- Nepal requires climbers to bring down 8 kg of trash
- Clean-up expeditions remove debris
- Permit fees fund conservation
- Restrictions on climbing numbers proposed
Climate Change Effects
- Glaciers retreating at accelerating rate
- Khumbu Glacier losing mass
- Previously frozen bodies becoming exposed
- Changing snow conditions affecting routes
- Base Camp may need relocation due to melting
Scientific Research
High-Altitude Studies
Everest serves as a natural laboratory:
- Hypoxia and human physiology
- Extreme cold adaptation
- Atmospheric science
- Glaciology
Weather Stations
Automated stations installed to:
- Monitor summit conditions
- Track climate change
- Provide forecasts for climbers
- Collect long-term data
Geological Research
Studies investigate:
- Plate tectonics
- Uplift rates
- Seismic activity
- Rock composition
Cultural Significance
Local Peoples
Sherpa
The Sherpa people have deep connections to Everest:
- Originally migrated from Tibet ~500 years ago
- "Sherpa" means "people of the East"
- Buddhism central to culture
- Mount Everest is sacred (Chomolungma = "Holy Mother")
- Modern Sherpas essential to climbing industry
Religious Significance
- Buddhists consider mountain sacred
- Monasteries at Tengboche and Rongbuk
- Puja ceremonies before climbing
- Prayer flags mark routes and camps
In Popular Culture
- Books: "Into Thin Air" (Krakauer), "Into the Silence" (Davis)
- Films: "Everest" (2015), IMAX documentaries
- Controversies: Commercialization debates
See Also
References
- Venables, S. (2003). Everest: Summit of Achievement. Royal Geographical Society.
- Krakauer, J. (1997). Into Thin Air. Villard Books.
- Firstbrook, P. (2011). Lost on Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine. Contemporary Books.